Still in lockdown in Eastbourne one year after a hurried return from Colombia, we decided to hike a section of one of England’s most scenic trails. The trail from Cuckmere Haven to Eastbourne is a part of the South Downs Way. A steep path from the west end of Eastbourne’s promenade is the kick-off point for the 100-mile South Downs Way. Starting at the west end of Eastbourne’s promenade, the epic trail comes to an end at Winchester in Hampshire after crossing the entire of the South Downs National Park. The trail takes in some spectacular scenery including Beachy Head Lighthouse and the Seven Sisters cliffs. It continues through the English countryside over rolling hills, through forests and dipping into picturesque villages.
We decided to do a section of the trail starting from Cuckmere Haven and finishing back in Eastbourne. On a mild March morning, we took the bus from Eastbourne to Seven Sisters Park. This is where the Cuckmere Estuary (otherwise known as Cuckmere Haven) scenically winds its way to the sea across the flood plains. Walking across the fields, we found our way to the white cliffs of Seven Sisters.
The Seven Sisters
This part of the coast consists of a series of dramatic chalk cliffs. In fact, it is one of the longest stretches of undeveloped coastline on England’s south coast. The valleys of Seven Sisters were carved into chalk in the ice age by meltwater. Every year, thirty or forty centimetres of the cliffs are eroded away by the the elements. We walked up and down the three miles of undulating grassy banks, enjoying the solitude and spectacular views of the sculpted white chalk cliffs and the sea below. It was fairly early in the morning and we only passed a couple of other people.
We stopped for a picnic breakfast at Brass Point, one of the ‘summits’. Indeed, each of the hills have their own names. In addition to Brass Point, there is Haven Brow, Short Brow, Rough Brow, Flagstaff Brow, Bailey’s Hill and Went Hill. That morning we conquered them all! The area has, in fact, been used as a backdrop for several movies. These include Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves, Atonement and Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. Indeed, it’s easy to understand why the striking landscape is a favourite spot for film producers.
Birling Gap
The first sign of civilisation came as we approached Birling Gap. The tiny hamlet perched on a cliff edge comprises of a cluster of cottages and a cafe. The beach at Birling Gap is mostly pebbles and when the tide goes out, there are an abundance of rock pools to explore. The cliffs here are also crumbling away and a cottage situated on the cliff edge had clearly been abandoned. All the way along the coastline, there are warnings not to tread too close to the edge in case the fragile chalk cliffs disintegrate underfoot.
From Birling Gap, it’s possible to walk inland to the village of East Dean, around a mile away. The Tiger Inn, situated on the village green, is a popular 15th century watering hole. It’s an ideal spot to enjoy some pub grub and a pint of Sussex ale. We, however, still had a way to go and returned to the coastal trail without lingering. (The pub is, in fact, presently closed due to lockdown, as is the cafe at Birling Gap).
Belle Tout
The next landmark that we came across was the Belle Tout Lighthouse. Built in 1832, it was decommissioned as a lighthouse in 1902. It has since been a tea shop, private home and is presently a hotel. Themed rooms include the Captain’s Cabin, along with the Keeper’s Loft, Old England, New England, Beach Hut and Shiraz. It has also appeared in many movies and TV shows including The Loves and Lives of a She Devil to the James Bond film, The Living Daylights.
Beachy Head
The final landmark on the trail is perhaps the most famous. In fact, Beachy Head is one of England’s most well-known landmarks. Chalk cliffs, 530-foot high, dramatically overlook a red and white striped lighthouse. Due to ongoing wind erosion, the cliffs maintain a pure white appearance. Indeed, it’s a spectacular spot and although it’s a popular tourist attraction, there is also a dark side to Beachy Head. Since the 1600’s, it has been a notorious spot for suicides. As a matter of fact, since 1965, over 500 people have taken their lives there. Some deaths have been accidental – people have lost their balance when posing for photographs too close to the edge, or stumbled when walking dangerously near the precipice.
Eastbourne
From Beachy Head, it took around half an hour to descend onto Eastbourne’s elegant seafront. Passing the bandstand and pier, we walked the few remaining miles back to Langney Point. The entire route from Cuckmere Haven to Eastbourne was around thirteen miles, the most we had undertaken since we hiked the Norfolk Coastal Path last summer. The scenic route along the cliffs of the south coast was a thoroughly enjoyable hike and mildly challenging, yet manageable. In fact, it was delight to escape to the hills for the day and feel the sun on our faces after a chilly winter of lockdown.
Helpful Facts
Getting to the South Coast by Train from London – Brighton and Eastbourne are both easily accessible by Train, which leaves for both destinations from Victoria Train Station. It takes about fifty minutes to reach Brighton and an hour and a half to get to Eastbourne.
Getting to Cuckmere Haven by Bus – Bus numbers 12, 12A AND 12X run between Eastbourne and Brighton stopping at East Dean and Seven Sisters Park (for Cuckmere Haven).
Food and Drink – We took a picnic, but it’s also possible to purchase snacks and drinks at Birling Gap Cafe. The Tiger Inn at East Dean is a traditional pub situated on the village green and serves food and drinks. Beachy Head Inn is located just across the road from the lighthouse and serves snacks, meals and drinks.
The Hike – If you are reasonably fit, you shouldn’t have any problems walking from Cuckmere Haven to Eastbourne. There are lots of ups and downs, but none of the hills are too challenging (although they may look it as you approach them!)
Wow, what a gorgeous coastline! I love your pictures. Maggie
Thank you! Good to hear you liked the post! 👍
What a great adventure! I love the post, I loved the photos and I know I would enjoy walking that route (although I might like to stop for the night along the way 😊). Simply fantastic! so beautiful ❣❣
Thank you so much! I had done some of the hike before, but not all of it – it was like having a mini adventure in our backyard! 😊
Wow, if that is “in your backyard” you always have an adventure nearby!
Hope you get to travel soon! The photos are lovely! Those cliffs make me want to book a trip there soon! Thanks for sharing and have a great day 🙂
Thank you! Glad you liked the post. Enjoy your day too! 😊
Looks like a very long walk, beautiful photos. I hope you’re out of lockdown soon and can enjoy that pub
HaHa – Thank you! The first stage of easing lockdown starts today when people can meet outside again in groups of up to six. The final stage is supposedly June, but it depends on how things go. I think we can be served outside a pub on April 12th!
Exciting news ..pavements will be overrun
Ooh beautiful photos!
Thank you! ☺
Fantastic photos 😊! And I would like to hike there …
Thanks – hope you are able to do it one day!
The cliffs are impressive indeed for their height and whiteness. A walk by the sea must be very pleasant with the good weather coming back and before the heat. The problem with coastal walks is that it’s difficult to get back to the starting point.
Yes – it’s a great time of the year to take a hike. It can be a problem returning to the starting point, but luckily for us, we were able to take a bus from where we are living to the start of the hike and walk all the way back from there. It can certainly be an issue if there isn’t any public transport though – we have experienced such issues many times on our travels.
I love the walks, hikes and coastal paths here in the UK! That looks like a great walk, need to check it out at some point as the scenery is just stunning.
There’s nothing like a coastal walk on a sunny day. It really is a great hike, but sometimes when it’s local, you take it for granted. Hope you are able to do it yourself in the not too distant future!
Gorgeous coastline!
Probably my favourite Sussex walk! When I first moved to Sussex in 1991 (we live in Kent now), I already knew about its beautiful countryside, its wonderful coastline, Brighton, the Downs…. but the hidden delight which was the icing on the cake was the huge number of fantastic village pubs right across the county. I lived there for 20 years and never tired of touring those pubs and finding new ones. You’ve even mentioned one of my favourites- The Tiger at East Dean.
Yes -there’s nothing like a pub lunch after a hike in the countryside! The Tiger is in such a lovely setting too.
Beautiful views, Ku! Loved it!
Thanks Jyothi!
This looks like a beautiful trail – with amazing views!
Love the contrast of colours of the white cliffs and green grass … if it was not evening while I’m reading this, I would have put my trail runners on and went for a walk next to our lagoon … this is how much you’ve just inspired me!
It’s so great to hear that you found the post inspiring! We are lucky to have such a lovely trail so close to us, especially at the moment, while we are still limited as to where we can go. We even have sunshine, which is an added bonus! Happy Trails!