Located in the beautiful Himalayas and rich in Tibetan culture, the refugee colony of Dharamsala has been home to the exiled Dalai Lama since 1959. Indeed, it’s not surprising that it holds such great appeal to the spiritual seekers, hippies and tourists who are drawn to this remarkable destination.
We went to Dharamsala a couple of years back and we enjoyed its laidback vibe so much, that we lingered much longer than anticipated. Our choice of accomodation was the Greenwoods Inn, close to the hippie village of Dharamkot. We had views of the mountains and watched eagles flying over the valley below. The guys at the hotel were really kind and helpful. Even budget hotels in India have room service and the Greenwoods Inn was no exception. We relied on it a lot while we were there as we were both recovering from a bout of Delhi Belly, and the food was good.
Dharamkot is a tiny village with just one path cutting through it and is lined with cafes, guest houses and yoga schools. It’s the kind of place that travellers stay for months on end and it’s easy to understand why – the views are spectacular.
A Flavour of Tibet
The town of McLeod Ganj is the main attraction. The narrow streets are lined with cafes, Buddhist bookshops and stalls selling Tibetan crafts. In fact, a meander through town feels more akin to walking the streets of Lhasa than India.
Monks mingle with dreadlocked backpackers. Prayer flags flutter in the breeze and cows wander past coffee shops. Meanwhile, traders attempt to entice passers-by into their laden stores. It is here that the Dalai Lama himself lives, in a modest residence behind Tsuk Lakhang Temple.
Monk’s Debate
No visit to McLeod Ganj is complete without a walk around the temple complex. Although the building itself isn’t particularly inspiring, it nevertheless provides an opportunity to experience something that is unique to Tibetan Buddhism. Every day in the courtyard, monks gather to hold surprisingly lively debates.
Usually working in pairs, one of the monks sits (the defender) while the other one stands (the questioner). There is much gesticulating and single hand claps are used to emphasise a point. It’s absorbing to watch and although it occasionally appears to be a fierce exchange, it is done in good humour as can be seen by the frequent smiles on the monk’s faces.
A large gold Buddha sits in the temple on the first floor. Bare-footed pilgrims pay their respects and spin the prayer-wheels, walking in a clock-wise direction. The Dalai Lama no longer conducts public audiences, but if you are really lucky you may be able to catch one of his rare public teachings.
The Tibetan Museum
The Tibetan Museum offers an important reminder of the horrendous plight that the Tibetan people have endured at the hands of the Chinese invaders. The story is told via exhibits in words and pictures. There are some fascinating photographs, including one of the Dalai Lama arriving in India on horseback in 1959. Although it’s a simple museum, it is nevertheless very poignant and thought-provoking.
Spiritual Retreats
A magnet for those seeking spiritual enlightenment and well-being, there are consequently numerous courses available in Dharamsala. Whether you are interested in ayurvedic massage, yoga, meditation or the study of Buddhism, you will find what you are looking for. As a matter of fact, many of the retreats are hidden away in tranquil areas of the forest. The Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre and Tushita Meditation Centre both have a very good reputation.
The Culture of Tibet
About twelve miles from McLeod Ganj, The Norbulingka Institute is an oasis of serenity. Dedicated to preserving the art and culture of Tibet, the complex consists of traditional style buildings. Additionally, there is a temple, doll museum and various workshops to explore. The Japanese-style gardens are a pleasure to wander around, and there is a lovely restaurant with indoor and outside seating.
Himalayan Hikes
For those who enjoy a walk in the mountains, there are a variety of treks from the overnight Triund to the six-day hike across the challenging Bhimghasutri Pass. Indeed, there are numerous trekking companies in town which can provide guides and equipment.
If your idea of fun is more a stroll than a major hike, the trail to Bhagsu Waterfall only takes about twenty minutes. The route has several cafes, many providing an ideal spot to sit and take in the view of the mountains. Alternatively, you can head down to the stream, where there are plenty of waterholes in which to take a refreshing dip. Afterwards, soak up the rays from one of the large rocks at the water’s edge. Bhagsu, situated in the valley is a popular spot with Indian tourists.
A Fascinating Destination
Whether or not you are a spiritual seeker, Dharamsala is, in fact, a culturally fascinating, yet chilled destination. In fact, it’s a place that invites visitors to slow down, enjoy the fresh mountain air and soak up the its unique Himalayan vibe.
It’s a curious mix of spirituality and tourism, it reminds me of pilgrimage sites. Do people go there for the faith or for the setting?
I think a little of both – it’s popular with spiritual seekers and trekkers. It’s very much a pilgrimage site for Buddhists, especially as it is home to the Dalai Lama.
Very intersting place! Undoubtedly the food would be great too, genuine sampling of the simple and tasty Tibetan cuisine.
With the great weather and the beautiful vistas of the Himalayas it sounds like a great place to go to. And the cafe setting looks amazing 🙂
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Sounds like a fascinating place to visit I could imagine wanting to spend a lot of time there soaking it in.
Hi Glenys, yes – we loved it there and spent much longer than originally intended. It has a very peaceful vibe.
Great post! The landscape, culture, and spirituality are all very beautiful in Dharamsala!
Thanks – yes, it’s a beautiful place and definitely worth a visit!
truly awesome…like the many lovely places in India
We were in MacLeod Ganj 2 years ago and were lucky to go to one of the Dalai Lama’s teachings. It was one of the most incredible experience of our whole 20 month trip. Unfortunately it was pouring rain the entire time so we didn’t see much of the beautiful scenery as your pictures show. I’d love to back when it isn’t monsoon season.
How amazing! You were so lucky, I don’t think he is doing so much public speaking these days. Shame about the weather – hopefully you will make it back one day.
please do visit back….
You bring back my memories of the trip…. it’s nice to know you enjoyed India!
That’s great to hear! We have very fond memories of India and hope to return one day 😊
every journey in india is a dream come true….i agree ambica
is it good to visit Dharamshala in December ?
Apparently it is freezing cold and overcast, so probably not the best time to go!
Oh, is there any snowfall in December ??
We haven’t actually visited Dharamsala in December, but just looked it up online and it looks as though there can be snowfall in December.
Sure thank you for advice
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Thank you so much! Your blog is very inspirational!
one of my favourite place in HP because of its calmness and beauty
Yes – we agree. It’s the perfect place to chill out!
😀
Thank you for giving me inspiration to visit..when we can travel freely once more
Hope you make it there one day – it’s an intriguing place and very beautiful too.