Join us for tea for two in Darjeeling, India’s premier tea-producing area high in the Himalayas.
Into the Himalayas
After a few relaxing weeks in Dharamsala, we took the overnight bus back to Delhi. From there, we flew to Bagdogra, the nearest airport to Darjeeling. After a crazy taxi ride with a fourteen-year-old driver who was yelling into his phone for most of the journey and a night in a fleapit hotel, we took the high road to Darjeeling.
Due to the mountainous roads, jeeps are the way to travel in these parts. We managed to get front seats and set off towards the mountains, passing tea plantations and small villages. Soon, the mist appeared, and the views disappeared. Four hours later, we arrived in Darjeeling in pouring rain.
On arrival at our hotel, we were appropriately served with tea for two in our room. It was a lovely welcome. Although neither of us are tea-drinkers, we couldn’t possibly turn down a cup of the best tea in the world whilst in Darjeeling!
Darjeeling wasn’t quite what we imagined. Rammed with jeeps, you could not walk along the road without being honked at twenty times in twenty minutes. It wasn’t exactly peaceful, although there were a few pedestrianised areas, which provided relief from the traffic. The highlights, of course, were the fabulous mountain views. Additionally, there was a colourful temple adorned with prayer flags at the top of a hill and we also discovered a great bookshop in a cool colonial building and the excellent Himalayan Mountaineering Institute.
A Visit to the Magistrate’s Court!
Whilst in Darjeeling, we had to get permits for Sikkim, which was easier said than done. It involved going to the registration office (locating it was a feat in itself!) and then to the magistrate’s office, where they authorised the form given to us at the registration office! Although our Rough Guide was brand new, all the information was already out of date, including addresses.
It made for an interesting morning. We met an Israeli guy, who was in the same situation as us, and we all went to the magistrate’s office together. Well, we went with him because he had Google maps on his phone and we didn’t want to get lost!
A Hair-Raising Journey!
The two days following our departure from Darjeeling were not particularly smooth sailing. We had been told by a taxi ‘official’ that we could get a shared jeep from Darjeeling to Pelling. When we arrived, they told us that the only way to get there would be by private jeep which would cost about $90.00!
We had already booked five night’s accommodation in Pelling and thought that we would lose what we had paid, so decided that we didn’t really have an option. The journey took about six hours. We passed through the Sikkim border and headed even higher into the mountains. The views were spectacular, but the roads were rough and mostly unpaved. A combination of potholes, mud and sheer drops made for a hair-raising journey.
A Long Wait in Rainy Gyalshing
When we finally arrived at our hotel in Pelling, they didn’t have our booking or any rooms available! We managed to find somewhere else to stay for a night, but due to inclement weather coming in (we had been planning to do some trekking) and not really getting good vibes about Pelling, we decided to hightail it out of town first thing in the morning.
We left early, but discovered that all the jeeps were booked up to Gangtok, our next destination. Our only option was to take a taxi down to a small town called Gyalshing, where we would be able to get a shared jeep. We arrived at 7.45 am and the next available jeep was not leaving until 12.30 pm.
We had some toast in a small family-run hotel restaurant. When we left the restaurant it was pouring with rain, so we spent the next few hours in a small pagoda sheltering from the downpour.
At 12.00 pm, we headed the car park where the jeeps were departing from. There were about a hundred jeeps going to destinations all over Sikkim and we had to find ours. It was still pouring and there was nowhere to shelter. We finally managed to ascertain that our jeep was late arriving. It was definitely one of those low travel moments, as we stood soaking wet, anticipating a five-hour journey in a cramped jeep!
Finally, we found our jeep and were on our way. If we thought the roads were rough before, they were now awash with mud, and the drops looked scarier than ever. We saw the aftermath of a particularly horrendous accident, where a jeep had come off a higher road, careered through the wooded slope, and crashed onto a lower road. A body had been taken out of the vehicle and a crowd stood around staring at it. We aren’t usually nervous passengers, but travelling in these parts certainly didn’t fill us with confidence.